Frasqueiras Pereira D’Oliveiras Malvazia Sweet (bottled 2019, 27yo) 1991

Here's Crazy Mary-Jane! A big herbal hit on the nose takes away any possibility of candy over-sweetness. Caramel and grilled nuts run around in a complex of wood notes, and excellent freshness partners aged and developed secondary characters. Herbal-columbine, toffee-tobacco, sweet but smoky and caney. Sweet, yes but it carries a lashing of acid squeak that teases out a long and almost savoury tea-like finish, with sugar memories tumbling along behind.